Trends in Dining
“Marcellino Ristorante”
By Karen Dawson
I do not understand this low-carb, no-carb, bad-versus-good-carb diet fascination…I want them, I need them, and I am a better person for them. So, I make pasta at home because I am normally disappointed whenever I dine out, until now. Marcellino Ristorante resides in a demure storefront setting on Northern Avenue. It is owned by Chef Marcellino, who has shown his talents in Italy, Greece and New York along with his wife, Sima Verzino. Don’t let their modest setup fool you. As soon as you enter and pass through the red velvet drapes, you are quickly transported from strip mall to piazza. The warm and inviting atmosphere makes you feel like you are dining at your Nona’s house. There is an old world décor, decently spacious dining room and an inviting bar smack dab in front of you.
But let’s get serious – I’m here for the pasta. The server arrives with a plate of airy homemade focaccia with roasted red pepper and eggplant puree…I am happy. Then, he displays the nightly pasta specials that really awaken that pleasure-carb center in my brain. It is a tray of neatly twisted, naked, uncooked pastas accompanied by a knowledgeable description of each and their assigned sauces. Prices are not mentioned, so you may want to ask.
For starters, the caprese of fresh mozzarella, tomatoes and basil ($10.95) is perfect, the carpaccio di manzo ($13.95) is substantially sliced with pungent arugula, mushrooms and Parmigiano…some of the best I’ve had. The insalata ortolana – a salad of fava beans, radish, olives, spinach and arugula (9.95) – was simple and earthy; however, I sent a search party for the fava beans…found them yet? Please call.
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Dining at Marcellino Ristorante will require a bit of a generous budget and several hours; however, keep in mind . terrific food and topnotch ingredients require both.
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Daily entrees include fish, meats, chicken, veal and lamb, and at least a half-dozen pasta entrees on the menu ($18-$26). Each piece of pasta at Marcellino is meticulously crafted with pride from the hands of an artisan and then paired with a sauce that perfectly balances flavors and textures. The pappardelle with wild boar ragu proves that this combination is indulgent and luxurious. The saffron linguine sautéed with manila clams and broccoli di rape is simply tossed with olive oil and garlic; it’s not especially glamorous but that’s precisely the beauty of it. The cacao e pepe – a black pepper, flecked pasta with caramelized onions, pancetta and a tangy red sauce – is a commingling of sweet, salty and tangy.
If you choose to deviate from the pasta selections, the meat and fish entrees are first-rate as well. Veal scaloppini al gorgonzola ($26.95), sautéed tender veal slices with a velvety gorgonzola sauce; filet con tartufo ($36.95), a superbly cooked filet with a beautiful Barolo wine reduction and a drizzle of truffle oil; or the Atlantic salmon with a whisper of a porcini crust with leeks and cognac ($23.95) are all flavorful and elegant choices.
After several virtually flawless dining experiences at Marcellino, I now will rarely mess up my kitchen, or manicure, with flour, eggs and a kitchen aid. I have found pasta perfection without the need for a passport. This experience will require a bit of a generous budget and several hours; however, keep in mind, fresh pasta is labor intensive, and terrific food and topnotch ingredients require both of the aforementioned.
Location: 1301 E. Northern Ave., Phoenix 85020. Phone: 602.216.0004
Dinner served Mon.-Sat.; Lunch Tues.-Fri.
Atmosphere: Relaxed and romantic
Noise level: Can talk easily
Dress: Nice casual – special occasion gussied up
Rating: ***1/2
**** = Extraordinary
*** = Excellent
** = Good
* = Fair
None = Poor |
